Iwas shocked to get in the surf postpartum and find that, while I could lie on my surfboard in the correct posture and move my arms in a paddling motion, I had no capacity for acceleration. My arms didn’t propel me through the water because, between my leaking breasts and my navel, there was an utter lack of muscle, an absence where there had once been power. I was pummelled by a gentle ocean in ways that would have been unimaginable pre-pregnancy.

After kids, my therapist told me my life lacked pleasure. This is how I got it back. Credit:

It was hard to grapple with, this lack of something that had always felt so intrinsically me. Surfing wasn’t just a hobby: it gave shape to my sense of self, and had honed the fabric of my body. I had to work hard to regain that power. It wasn’t tha

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