As I drove into Windward Plaza, a retail complex in northeast Alpharetta, it looked empty and calm on a weekend evening. But when I go around back, the energy transformed—I found a packed restaurant in quiet suburban milieu.

Laghman Express , which opened in April, offers a blend of Central Asian cuisines. As a region once central to the Silk Road, the food draws from the ancient confluence of cultures with an emphasis on meat dishes as mains, complemented by dairy, fresh vegetables, and breads. The New York Times included the eatery’s original location in Brooklyn on its “ 100 Best Restaurants ” list the past two years. Laghman Express co-owner Babur Akhmedov hails from Kyrgyzstan, and he is spearheading the opening of the Alpharetta location.

The restaurant was bright, open, and c

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