Miguel Castro Freitas is sitting in his office at the Mugler atelier in Paris on Monday morning, and three things are laid before the house’s newish creative director on a glass and chrome desk: a jar of honey, gifted by the father of someone on his design team who keeps bees (and which he keeps close to hand to treat sore throats—an occupational hazard of fashion week); a tin beside it, which I mistook for tea, but is in fact full of pins; and a stack of DVDs— Pink Flamingoes , Lost Highway , Lola , Metropolis , Sunset Boulevard , The Blue Angel , and Mildred Pierce among them. I ask you: Could this list of movies be any more Mugler?

The work of Thierry Mugler, who founded the label in 1974, oscillated between old Hollywood, high camp, and outer space—and sometimes encomp

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