Vegetable-loving cooks can make ratatouille all summer long, from the first moment that peppers, zucchini, eggplant and tomatoes get glossy and ripe. But I think early autumn is when the dish truly shines.
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It’s partly context. When the evenings turn chilly, tucking into a warm bowl of soft, stewy late-season produce is inherently comforting. And since I roast my ratatouille instead of simmering it on the stove, early fall is maybe the first time since late spring when keeping the oven on for an hour is a pleasure, rather than an ordeal.
Roasted ratatouille is both less work and better tasting than the traditional method. For one thing, you don’t need to stand at the stove stirring a pot all afternoon. And spreading the vegetables out on a sheet-pan gives them the space