Daniel Roseberry, from Plano, Texas, put Schiaparelli back on the fashion map a few years ago with a corseted waist, scything shoulders, and surrealist-joke accessories — golden lips, noses, breasts — that many women apparently adored. He is not entirely finished with a molded body, judging from his recent couture show, but last night, for his spring 2026 ready-to-wear collection, he ditched the heavy armature and trims. Roseberry may have finally found his motor.

It was one of the better showings of the whole season. Why? Because it dealt with the body in a way that looked unforced and lyrical. Many collections during this round of the circus have lacked ease. Mugler’s new designer, Miguel Castro Freitas, seemed obsessed with the armor-plated silhouette of the 1930s, with a small waist,

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