As always, Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski was thinking about equestrian style, but this time the mood was more freewheeling than formal, and there was a sexual frisson in the air. She was thinking about the Camargue in southwestern France, known for its marshes, sand banks, flamingos and work horses that are used to herd bulls.

“It’s also a land of bohemians, gypsies – and freedom. I wanted to bring this zest of freedom to equestrian style, which is often associated with the strict and the rational. I wanted to let go and give it a sense of spontaneity and fullness,” said the designer.

It was a polished lineup – this is Hermès, after all – but there was a sporty, flirty edge, with lots of curve-hugging silhouettes, short shorts, and harness and corset details. The runway was covered in sand and

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