At Chloé, Chemena Kamali Gives 1950s Florals a Couture Flourish for Spring 2026

For spring 2026, Chloé creative director Chemena Kamali traded bohemian neutrals for a collection of bright, sunny, colorful florals. Models appeared on the minimal catwalk on October 5 wearing one ruched concoction after another. Thin spaghetti straps, bows, puff sleeves...Looking at the first half of the collection, it seemed Kamali had put down her signature vibe—the designer’s past two collections for the French house practically kicked off the aughts boho revival —in favor of retro maximalism.

“When I looked at the very early years of when Gaby Aghion founded the house, it was in the late 1950s,” Kamali said backstage after the show. “It was the couture years. But she sort of rejected couture. She didn’t want the stiffness, she didn’t want the formality. She wanted things to be lig