First things first. Fans of the ebullient Donato Scotti, chef-owner of Donato Enoteca, need not worry that his presence will be missing from the Redwood City restaurant after a 16th anniversary refresh.

In restaurant parlance, he has simply moved from the back of the house to the front of the house, where the loquacious host can make the rounds and greet and chat with diners.

The changes at this standout restaurant — known for its focus on regional Italian cuisine — came during a monthlong closure over the summer. The reopening weeks began with dinner service, and in late September, a separate lunch menu was added. Both are offered daily, as is a happy hour menu.

Here’s our first look at the changes:

THE DESIGN AND VIBE: This smart modernization created two restaurant vibes in one spac

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