“You are what you eat,” wrote American journalist and author Michael Pollan in his seminal The Omnivore’s Dilemma . The quote encapsulates just how far removed most of us now are from where our meat and dairy come from .

This is particularly true of supermarket cheddar , which is often the product of complex industrial processes and milk from cattle raised indoors on grain – rather than grazing outside, on nutritionally superior pasture.

Of course, industrial processes and the scaling up of milk production are what has enabled cheddar to feed hungry mouths quickly and easily. Even I, a bona fide champion of artisanal cheese, must admit that most parents (and students) would go mad without a block of cheddar in the fridge. But the problem with cheap cheddar is that it has encouraged

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