H untington has a reputation as Long Island’s liveliest dining town: The village, anchored by the intersection of New York Avenue and Main Street, is chock-a-block with restaurants of every style and price point — and serving the cuisines of most continents.

Flux has always been a factor here, but the last two years have seen the departure of an unprecedented number of longstanding and major players — among them, Faz’s (est. 1992), Finley’s of Green Street (1992), House of India (2001), Red (2000), Osteria da Nino (2003) and Neraki (2011). Except for Finley’s, all of those spaces have been snapped up by new operators.

Alex Moschos closed Neraki last month after struggling in a post-COVID era defined not only by the sky-high cost of ingredients, labor, insurance and rent

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