For more than a century, Lodi's grape growers have supplied the old wineries that make this Californian city famous. But rocketing costs, falling demand and competition from imports mean some are now abandoning their vineyards.

Randy Baranek, whose family has farmed these hillsides for generations, said thousands of acres (hectares) of vines -- a quarter of Lodi's production -- have been removed in the last two years.

"I've never seen anything like this," he told AFP.

Baranek said an acre of vines can produce between eight and ten tons of grapes, which can be sold for a maximum of $3,000.

"Our costs are between $3,000 and $4,500 an acre to farm," he said, as he picked his way through abandoned Chardonnay vines.

"We're twirling the toilet."

Even ripping out the vines is difficult, sai

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