As you navigate increasingly narrow and winding roads, you begin to question whether a bustling town featuring independent retailers and expansive beaches could truly await at journey's end. Yet as you approach the coastline, the 13th-century city walls - regarded as amongst Britain's most significant surviving medieval fortifications - emerge into sight.

The Rough Guide ranks it amongst the UK's finest seaside destinations, and its reputation becomes instantly apparent as you pass through the Grade 1 defensive barrier, thought to have been constructed as protection against rival Welsh armies.

Within, the aroma of freshly prepared Pembrokeshire pies drifts along the streets, local galleries showcase artwork by regional painters, and seating areas overflow onto blossom-adorned thoroughfar

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