The closure of Threadneedle Street’s M Restaurant earlier this year, after a decade slinging the capital’s finest steak, was a genuine blow. One of the restaurants that helped the Square Mile shake off its stuffy reputation, it combined a meticulous, scholarly appreciation of meat with a sense of fun, even whimsy. Robot waiters , wine vending machines, lots of dogs.

Now M founder Martin Williams is the head of the Evolv restaurant group (formerly D&D London, even formerly-er Terence Conran’s eponymous food empire) and it feels appropriate – nay destined – that his first big opening would be a restaurant serving steak to the people of the Square Mile.

Liverpool Street Chop House and Tavern is the sister restaurant to Paternoster Chop House and Tavern, which opened more than 20 years

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