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It’s hard to think of a vegetable more overlooked and underrated than celery. I’m reminded of this whenever the weather cools and I have the urge to make khoresht-e karafs. In Farsi, the name means, simply, “celery stew.”

“There is so much brightness and aroma to be found in celery’s elegant stalks,” Yasmin Khan wrote in her newest cookbook, “Sabzi,” a collection focused on vegetable-forward cooking. As a longtime fan of Khan’s work, I was excited to see her pull from her Iranian and Pakistani heritage for many of the dishes in “Sabzi.”

Get the recipe: Khoresht-e Karafs (Persian Celery Stew)

I loved ho

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