At its peak, the Uzbek city of Samarkand was the beating heart of an empire that stretched from India to the Middle East. Ruling the realm was Timur the Lame, or Tamerlane, a bloodthirsty tyrant who claimed to be a direct descendant of Genghis Khan.

The chess-playing Tamerlane was regarded as a brilliant tactician and one of the greatest military leaders in history – millions are believed to have died as a result of his murderous ambition. But juxtaposed against that brutality was his generous patronage of the arts and Islam. Nowhere is this more prevalent than in his picturesque stronghold.

I’ve come to Samarkand with high expectations. Of all the highlights listed on our Bunnik Tours itinerary through Central Asia’s five “Stans” , from melting under the heat rising off a crater furna

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