how we eat

It’s tempting, at this time of year, to take home an enormous winter squash from the piles of gnarly, colourful gourds at farmers’ markets and flanking the entrances of grocery stores. Whether or not you know them by name, thick-skinned buttercup, Hubbard, kabocha, turban, kuri and squat French-style pumpkins can all be used in the same ways you might cook a more mainstream butternut or acorn squash.

They can be more intimidating to handle, both in size and shape; once you get it into your kitchen, what do you do with a knobby 10-pound squash? You could go at it with a knife and hack it into more manageable pieces. Or, when the oven is on for a banana bread or lasagna or something else, you could poke a few holes in it (to allow steam to escape, very important in order to avoi

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