What a $20 Million Steak Tastes Like

With steak, there’s nowhere to hide.

Almost anyone can turn out a decent steak, but making a truly great one requires skill, restraint, and patience. To transform a slab of beef into an entrée of savory complexity, chefs have only a few basic elements at their disposal and must execute each to perfection: sourcing, cut selection, aging, trimming, seasoning, and preparation. You can’t cover up any missteps. Expensive decor and elaborate presentations aren’t going to make a steak more delicious. But they might make an excellent one easier to overlook.

The steaks at Nuri , in Dallas’s ritzy Uptown neighborhood, haven’t received the attention they deserve, and it might just be that the restaurant itself is getting in the way. When it opened last year, headlines focused on the

$20 millio