I n the second week of February 2017, I reached a hotel in Moradabad at 8 p.m. The first phase of polling for the Uttar Pradesh Assembly elections had just concluded and there were six more to go. Having spent the entire day in the field talking to voters, I looked forward to some food and rest.

At the dimly lit check-in desk, the receptionist, a man in his mid-40s, asked, “Are you alone?” The question, and the tone in which it was said, instantly raised my hackles. “Yes,” I replied firmly, trying to inject authority into my voice. I am not sure whether that fooled him. It certainly didn’t fortify me. I grabbed the keys, waiving off the hotel staff who wanted to carry my luggage, and ran to my room. I locked the door and placed a chair against it. Looking back, I wonder if I was overreac

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