Though nonalcoholic wines aren’t a new invention, good ones are. The first one I tasted, more than 20 years ago at a Thanksgiving dinner, was little more than dark grape juice in a fancy bottle, and while I was happy to have something a bit more sophisticated to sip at dinner, it was more about fitting in than outright enjoyment. It also felt like a shame to pair good food with not-so-good wine — especially on the one holiday that’s specifically all about the food — but still, it was better than drinking soda.

That’s no longer the case, especially where red wine is concerned. Technology has improved, and it’s now possible to strip the alcohol from wine without decimating body, color and all the distinct characteristics that make reds so special in the first place. Now there are so many ch

See Full Page