TAYBEH, West Bank -- "Come visit Taybeh," begins the brochure touting the touristic attractions here, the last entirely Palestinian Christian village in the Israeli-occupied West Bank.

Though it counts Jesus among its many visitors over the years, said Khaldoon Hanna, Taybeh's avuncular deputy mayor, these days "no one is coming."

He sighed as he looked around the restaurant he owns on the village's Main Street. It felt abandoned, with little trace of activity in the kitchen and a layer of dust coating most tables. Only one faucet worked in the bathroom, but it didn't feel worth it to repair the rest.

"In the last two years, I haven't had more than 20 tourists come in here," Hanna said.

How could they, Hanna said, when you have to negotiate a growing gantlet of Israeli roadblocks just

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