“The rhino, chai, and the late Zubeen Garg.”

Arman Choudhary, the cab driver, fits the essence of his home state in three words as he puts his sunglasses on and steers the vehicle onto the highway from the Guwahati airport. “ Jacket pehen ne ki mausam ab tak aaya nahin hai iss baar (it’s still not time for the jackets this year).” Dismissing weather apps data, the early November sun is indeed warmer than expected.

Even as digital hoardings at the airport terminal hosted Shubman Gill , Temba Bavuma, and the Freedom Trophy, Arman affirms that “football is still more popular” around these parts. One begins to get the drift after an hour and some 25 kilometres away.

Cricket isn’t a thing in an Indian city when people have no sight or sound of an international game, a historic Test in

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