Medieval stone towers dot the alpine valleys of Upper Svaneti in north-western Georgia, silhouetted against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains.
The defensive towers, or ‘koshki’, are a defining part of the landscape of Svaneti, the highest inhabited area of the Caucasus.
Originally built to protect Svans from invaders, they have survived for centuries due to the isolated nature of the region.
The most famous collection of towers is found in Ushguli, a community of four villages located some 2,100m above sea level by the foot of Mt Shkhara.
Mindia Charkseliani’s family has lived in the village of Murkmeli in Ushguli for hundreds of years.
For Charkseliani, the towers are an integral part of what it means to be Svan.
"It’s part of our identity," he said.
"This is how they lived, our ancestors likely came here, settled, and began building. They lived alongside these towers, they struggled, and they developed. It’s their history, their adventures are reflected in these towers, that’s why we try so hard to preserve them.”
Charkseliani runs Agra, a small cafe and guesthouse, and says he’s committed to contributing to the preservation of his village’s heritage and community.
The unique nature of the towers and “highly preserved” nature of the villages in Upper Svaneti have earned Ushguli UNESCO protection.
But despite the status, many residents, including Charkseliani, worry about the future of their cultural heritage.
Murkmeli is one of the most damaged villages in Ushguli.
Many of its towers and traditional stone houses, known as machubis, lie in disrepair.
Charkseliani said that whilst the government provides some support, he believes it's insufficient to keep up with the pace of deterioration.
Neighbouring Chazhashi is the most well preserved village with around 200 towers still standing.
While the wider area of Ushguli has a level of protection under UNESCO, Chazhashi is the only one of the four villages classified as a World Heritage site.
But even in Chazhashi, residents are concerned about the future of their unique architecture.
Zoia Charkseliani’s family runs a small ethnographic museum inside a 12th century building.
The house’s residents would sleep on the upper level, while animals were kept on the floor below.
Preservation is costly and time-consuming, often requiring villages to team together to save buildings.
UNESCO notes that no management plan is enforced in Ushguli and that the local population and systems of community management are relied upon.
AP video shot by: Poppy Askham

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