Wine, etc.: California pinot noirs deliver quality, but at a price

Pinot noir thrives in California’s diverse terroir, though this thin-skinned “heartbreak grape” demands specific conditions — cool nights, morning fog and proximity to the Pacific Ocean.

While Sonoma County leads in production volume, connoisseurs seek bottles specifically from Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast appellations. Napa’s Carneros region benefits from San Pablo Bay’s cooling influence, as does Monterey along the Central Coast — both yielding wines with pronounced red fruit notes, earthiness and bright acidity.

Our personal preference leans toward Santa Barbara County’s Sta. Rita Hills, where pinot noir develops intriguing complexity, spice and dark fruit characteristics. The neighboring Santa Ynez and Santa Maria valleys also produce noteworthy expressions.

Quality comes a