A ligoté can divide. There are those who disdain it openly, proud, it appears, to proclaim loudly to anyone who will listen that it is not worth the effort it takes to make, that the best aligoté is inferior to the worst chardonnay. On the other side of the line are the sane, knowing individuals, the ones who appreciate aligoté and share their enthusiasm for it with their friends and acquaintances. If you encounter a character who belongs to the first group, nod in agreement and walk calmly away.

Aligoté is a proud grape. Burgundian winemakers love it (check out Les Aligoteurs ), and yes, you’ll traditionally find it in your Kir cocktail. Fascinating history and story behind that apéritif. It was originally known as a Blanc-cassis, but now honors Félix Kir (1876 to 1968), a former mayo

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