Not counting an all-too-brief 50th anniversary reunion tour in 2012, Brian Wilson hadn’t been a regular member of The Beach Boys since the late ’90s.

Yet, his absence was definitely missed — even more so than usual — when the Mike Love-led Beach Boys performed on Sunday (Aug. 17) at the Mountain Winery in Saratoga. It was the band’s first Bay Area concert since Wilson — the mastermind behind nearly every song performed on Sunday night — died in June at the age of 82.

“We miss him every night,” Love told the audience. “But he’s in our music, that’s for sure.”

That is for sure, indeed. And what incredible music it is. Opening with “Do It Again,” one of the band’s handful of keepers from the post-“Pet Sounds” era,” The Beach Boys would go on to showcase some of the greatest tunes in pop mu

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