Gone are the days when, for British diners, Indian food meant generic curry in a foil tin and a paper bag full of greasy poppadoms. Now an increasingly vibrant restaurant scene is putting the spotlight on the country’s huge variety of regional traditions – and the innovative chefs at the cutting edge of Indian cooking.

Kanishka, Mayfair

At this smart Mayfair restaurant headed by Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar, the seven-course tasting menu is an exciting journey bursting with taste. The odyssey through Indian flavour begins with a trio of snacks: a moreish spring vegetable samosa topped with rhubarb and chilli sauce, a dainty crab tartlet, and succulent pulled duck in a crispy shortcrust pastry. The next dish comprises soft Orkney scallops, a bump of caviar, and punchy dehydrated pea

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