Don’t complain about too much zucchini — make this recipe instead

Zucchini is the blessing and bane of a garden.

In high season, my friend “gifts” boxes of her prodigious crop on her neighbors’ front steps and in the back seat of unlocked cars. What to do with all this bounty?

On its own, zucchini is a relatively humble ingredient that pales next to its summer peers — those snappy cherry tomatoes, golden sweet corn, velvety eggplant. But what zucchini lacks in pizazz, it can make up for in its flexibility and adaptability. It adds moisture and flavor to muffins and tea breads, and is wonderful stir-fried and sautéed. Because of its high water content, zucchini can get soggy if it’s undercooked; it is truly best when roasted just long enough to extract all the juices, then turning golden, caramelized and crisp in the oven’s dry heat.

Zucchini is a summ