The old Nighttown had a sneaky way of turning moments into hours. A true neighborhood pub, it was the type of place you’d pop into at happy hour for a quick drink with a mate. But one round often turned into two, so the prudent thing to do was to order a quick appetizer. And then, just as you were about to settle up and sally, other friends invariably would roll in, turning that brief meet-up into a full-fledged outing. The next thing you know it’s 10:30 p.m. and you’ve Irish-goodbyed the gang because they showed no signs of letting up.

That situation never happened to me at the new Nighttown, the lukewarm revival from the Red Restaurant Group, but it certainly has at Edwins. Since moving in, Brandon Chrostowski not only has found the ideal new home for his mission-based restaurant, he al

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