It’s 1994, springtime in New York, and everyone is freezing their asses off. The likes of Kyle MacLachlan and Linda Evangelista, Francis Ford Coppola, Steven Meisel, and the late Bill Cunningham are emerging from the Marc Jacobs show . From the other end of Mercer Street, a parade of girls in primary-colored ringer tees, skater jeans, baby barrettes, and mini-skirts walk a makeshift runway—Pumpkin Wentzel, Luisa Reichenheim, Michele Lockwood, Jutta Koether, and a pre-fame Chloë Sevigny, with a blonde bowl cut and roots spray-painted pink, wearing a white T-shirt dress. Bikini Kill’s “Rebel Girl” blares from a van. A bedsheet—stolen from the Paramount Hotel down the road—is taped to a brick wall, with the word “X-GIRL” scrawled on it.

This is a now-infamous moment when X-Girl co-founders

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