One of the blessings of Bologna, in northern Italy, is that it knows how to ride a heat wave. The city, which is the capital of the Emilia-Romagna region, is rich in porticoes—elegant arcaded structures that line the streets and allow the panting pedestrian, at any point, to flee the sunlight’s blaze and seek shade. In all, according to Unesco , Bologna boasts more than thirty-eight miles of porticoes, and they promote a pleasing illusion that you are simultaneously inside and outside. A tip for anyone designing a metropolis from scratch: start with a portico, and take it from there.

On Thursday, June 26th, the temperature in Bologna reached more than ninety-eight degrees. Stepping out, into the glare, was like hitting a wall. Even as dusk descended, people lined up to gulp from public

See Full Page