Demna’s first statement for Gucci doesn’t tiptoe. “La Famiglia” arrives as his unapologetic debut, a collection that’s sexy, extravagant and intentionally unruly. It’s the designer planting a flag, making it clear that this is the beginning of a new Gucci dialect. Gucci has always been a family affair, but “La Famiglia” feels like the brand hosting Sunday dinner with extra wine poured and the good china laid out. This is the genesis of a new Gucci era, one that’s sexy, extravagant and just the right amount of reckless. Think of it less as a collection and more as an extended portrait gallery of the Gucci psyche, captured by Catherine Opie, each look personified as a character in the brand’s unruly family tree.

The House starts with its roots. L’Archetipo, a monogrammed travel trunk, groun

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