People in fashion worry about Burberry, and they especially worry about Daniel Lee, its creative director since late 2022. They worry, I suppose, because there are not many British brands with its international pull and history — arising, mostly, from a raincoat — and they want Burberry to matter, not merely succeed financially, as it did under Christopher Bailey. I liked Lee’s first show. Some of his British references were goofy, and he was all over the board, but he was aiming for a diversity that felt modern.

It was tough sledding after that. The clothes looked rich and remote with barely a pulse. Last season, at Tate Britain, we were plunged into a world of country house clothes, Saltburn meets The Gentlemen, with a vision that looked heavy and manufactured. People raved, which a

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