For Spring/Summer 2026, Emilia Wickstead takes us somewhere unexpected. The designer turned to Robert Mapplethorpe, whose photography has always lived in contradiction—florals as erotic as flesh, portraits as sharp as sculpture. Wickstead doesn’t quote him directly but channels his energy, translating those tensions into a collection that balances elegance with a flicker of danger.

Take the opening look: optic white denim cut into a cropped jacket and tailored trousers, finished with a floral tie. It reads clean at first glance, then unsettles just enough—precisely the point. Later, a lime crinkle mini makes its entrance, all sharp square neckline and sculpted texture. It’s girlish but with bite, the kind of dress that doesn’t need jewelry because its fabric already sparkles with movement

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