Using watermelon seed milk as a base for vegan ricotta creates “an incredibly milky flavor and delicate texture with a hint of grassiness, reminiscent of its dairy counterpart,” writes chef Miyoko Schinner in her new cookbook, “The Vegan Creamery” (Ten Speed Press, $27). “Note that the addition of cashews is an imperative, not an option,” she adds.

Makes about 1 1/2 pounds (675 g)

1 cup (140g) watermelon seed kernels

1/2 cup (70g) cashews

4 cups (950ml) water

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

In a blender, combine the watermelon seeds, cashews and water and process until a smooth milk is achieved. Pour this through a nut milk bag and squeeze to strain the milk into a pot. There will be only a small amount of pulp.

Heat the milk over medium-low heat, occasionally scraping the bottom and sid

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