Iwas drawn to the Upper West Side solely for a slice of pizza that had a whole mess of corn on it. But when I made my way past the threshold of the door, I was soon tempted by the full lineup just beyond the glass partition: squares showered with pecorino and Parmigiano, crumbles of fried chicken on another and slices of poached pear on the next. This is the decision you make when visiting Mama's Too. All pies are courtesy of owner Frank Tuttolomondo. Made the way he likes to eat pizza, the pizzas here toe the line at NYC- and Detroit-style. But regardless of how you want to label them, New Yorkers enjoy them all the same.

The original shop in the UWS seems like a standard slice shop, one with few chairs, wooden counters for eating over and gold ceilings. Beyond the glass, you

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