As some of you know I have been spending most of my time over the past few years painting. I paint waves mostly. Waves that I would want to ride in different settings, places, etc.

If I can’t be riding them, at least I can be painting them. My style is somewhere in the twilight zone between cartoon and reality, yet neither.

I have just turned 78 and have been surfing most of my life — rode my first wave at 7. I have no idea how many waves I have ridden, but it’s fair to say it’s a lot. This has led to a lot of wear and tear on my old body.

In 1965, I took a bad wipeout at Pipeline and hurt my back, getting rammed into the bottom sitting down. It was recommended that this be treated with pain management and hopefully it would heal if I took it slow.

Have I ever been known to take

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