“Bedside critiques of fashion shows by way of runway photos and livestreams can be a dangerous way to judge a creative’s work,” wrote Edward Buchanan on Instagram earlier this month. He added: “Please be careful with your hurtful language… and by all means, please brush up on your culture and fashion history before attempting to criticize the present for clickbait.”

It was no coincidence that Buchanan, mensch that he is, posted the day after Duran Lantink’s debut ready-to-wear show for the house of Jean Paul Gaultier. By that time the show had provoked a wave of excited condemnation from commentators online who seemed most consistently offended by the bodysuit printed with the (hairy) image of a (totally) naked male body worn by a female model. Even at the show itself, some onlookers had

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