The Alaïa cocoon-style jumpsuits seemed to constrict the models’ arms — until they turned around, revealing completely open backs, the porthole also revealing the waistband of cool jeans worn underneath.

The Balenciaga tunics seemed similarly austere, until the models did an about-face, revealing a slit that sagged open seductively.

Several spring 2026 collections put an emphasis on the exit impact of garments, an underappreciated aspect of fashion that returns to the forefront from time to time.

“Backs are always important, and they have been ever since I started at Max Mara ,” said creative director Ian Griffiths, who credits the Italian firm’s formidable head pattern cutter for instilling this idea. “She told me that if a designer only does the front of a design, not the back, they

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