Had you asked me this a couple of years ago, I’d have said of course not, don’t be so disgusting . It’s enough that dogs are allowed into restaurants, these days. Once there, they should lie quietly under the table.

Then I got my own dog, and I realised the situation is slightly more complicated.

It depends, for a start, on the restaurant. Should you be eating at The Ritz, enjoying a sumptuous and celebratory dinner featuring starched napkins, caviar, foie gras, Dover sole and a splendid bottle of white Burgundy or two, then no, your dog should absolutely not be sitting at the table. A posh restaurant is likely to have posh seating, sprung, upholstered chairs or banquettes which shouldn’t be sullied with grubby paws, even if dogs are allowed.

On the other hand, imagine you’re in the p

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