Where’s the beef? It’s at again. The duck will be back, too.

On Wednesday, chef that after four years of being a vegan restaurant, three-star Eleven Madison Park will serve meat and seafood again. In May 2021, when the in the world announced it would eschew meat, Humm said he was making the bold move because the “current food system is simply not sustainable,” garnering headlines around the world.

The Swiss-born chef’s change of heart—and menu—isn’t because he thinks our food system is sustainable again. He’s giving up the distinction as the world’s only Michelin three-star vegan restaurant to get more customers back in the door. “I very much believed in the all-in approach, but I didn’t realize that we would exclude people,” . “I have some anxiety that people are going to say, ‘Oh, he’s

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