In the south of France this weekend, the granddaddy of fashion prizes—The Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Accessories—marked its 40 th anniversary by showcasing talents from around the world. On the fashion front, family ties informed strong lineups that incorporated military themes, gender fluidity, and intensive handcraftsmanship — and it’s fair to say that, to a person, the 10 finalists presented pieces that would be perfectly at home on the shop floor right this very minute.

On Saturday afternoon, Swiss-Chilean designer Lucas Emilio Brunner scooped the Fashion Jury’s Grand Prize for a collection called “A Bout de Souffle” (Breathless), based on the idea of balloons. The designer, who until last July had worked in the Martin Margiela Atelier studio, present

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