Some grape growers in British Columbia are questioning the provincial government's decision to allow wineries to import grapes from outside the province, even as local crops flourish. This debate has sparked concern within the B.C. wine industry, highlighting the challenges and uncertainties faced by agricultural producers in the region.

In early 2024, a cold snap devastated the grape harvest, prompting the government to permit wineries to import fruit to prevent financial collapse. Michael Bartier, general manager of Bartier Bros. Vineyard and Winery in the Okanagan Valley, explained, "We had no crops — zero, nothing. We were looking at an enormous gap in cash flow." The relaxed importation rules allowed many wineries to survive and replant their vines. This year, Bartier reported that new vines yielded about 39% of a normal crop. To compensate for the reduced volume, he expanded his contracts to manage more acreage.

Despite the large crop this year, uncertainty lingered regarding the continuation of the import exemption. The government did not announce the extension until mid-September, after the harvest had begun. Bartier remarked, "That made it close to useless," but added, "In the end, I’m not sure that was such a bad thing."

Jeff Guignard, CEO of Wine Growers B.C., noted that initial estimates suggested a 40% to 50% shortfall in grapes this year. However, after a surprisingly good harvest, that estimate has been revised to about 30%, or roughly 10,000 tonnes of grapes. Guignard emphasized that B.C. winemakers would not import grapes if it were not necessary. In 2024, about one-third of wineries relied on imported grapes, but he believes that number has decreased this year.

Approximately 90% of grapes grown in B.C. are owned by wineries or grown under contract, while independent growers supply the remaining 10%. In years of surplus, these independent growers face challenges selling their grapes, especially if wineries are selective about quality or variety. Guignard expressed empathy for the growers, stating, "At the end of the day, I feel for the growers."

Jesse Gill, president of Back Door Winery in Summerland, raised concerns about the situation. He observed a good crop early in the summer and noted, "By early September, it was very apparent to me that grapes were not moving and we were looking at a surplus." Gill found it perplexing that the province extended the import program, stating, "It’s mind-boggling to me."

Gill worries that some wineries are opting to import grapes from Washington State due to lower costs. He pointed out that the tax exemption for imported grapes is significant, saying, "I think people are just looking at the bottom line."

Reports from Washington State indicate a similar surplus, with grapes being left unharvested due to oversupply. Gill highlighted the confusion for consumers regarding wines made with imported grapes, stating, "There’s a human side to this too. The toll it’s taking on growers. This is year three with lost revenue and we have grapes still on the vines. They are under so much pressure."

In response to the situation, Back Door Winery has launched a campaign called Save The Grapes, aiming to create a special 2025 vintage from grapes that would otherwise go to waste. B.C. Agriculture Minister Lana Popham acknowledged the need for wineries to recover from the 2024 winter, stating, "The 2025 vintage replacement will help winemakers transition back to fully local and sustainable winemaking."

Popham emphasized that participating wineries are expected to prioritize locally grown grapes and that the support measures are temporary, set to expire after the 2025 vintage. Wineries are currently allowed to produce wines using non-B.C. grapes while still benefiting from concessions typically reserved for B.C. wines.