I've known Neapolitan tailor Mariano Rubinacci for 30 or 40 years. He’s got great taste and one of the best menswear businesses in Italy. But I had never gotten a suit from him. I can’t explain it; I guess I just hadn’t had time.

Then, a decade or so ago, I visited him in Naples to get the clothing for a fashion exhibition I was working on. I had a couple days there, so I told him, “We’ve got the time now. I’d like you to make me a suit.” And he said, “Well, I thought you’d never ask.” I was in his shop the next morning.

You have to find a tailor who does what you like. And I like soft tailoring. The Neapolitans have a reputation for it, but I think Rubinacci is probably the best. Any tailor can give you a shaped suit—if you don’t care about how stiff it is—or something soft and shapel

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