When you build your business around a wood fire, you do business on the fire’s terms.

That’s worth bearing in mind when you visit Ash & Oak Wood Fired Pizza, a new venue that has filled a conspicuous opening in Mobile’s historic Leinkauf neighborhood, and one whose fame has been spreading rapidly.

The wood-fired bit is not a gimmick. You can tell that from every pizza that comes out of the brick oven. If you’re looking for the uniformity of a mass-produced product, look elsewhere. The irregular shape and coloration of these crusts screams that they’re product of human hands and a not-quite-fully-tamed heat source.

When they tell you they've got a spicy pepperoni pizza at Ash & Oak in Mobile, they're not playing. Lawrence Specker | LSpecker@AL.com

The toppings show a particular flair a

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